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Angry Bomber Bird Hat December 4, 2012

Filed under: Appliques,charecter hats,Cre8tions,Patterns — cre8tioncrochet @ 3:32 pm
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Angry bird bomber hat


*whenever you do applique or specialty work try to use the smallest tapestry hook possible for all weaving and sewing for a neater look
*for a seamless look on your hat follow one of the seamless methods found here

4.0mm hook for appliques
5.0mm hook for hat
Vanna’s choice yarn in yellow or gold, white, black, grey and cranberry
or any worsted weight (Red Heart is a good inexpensive alternative) in the same colors
embroidery needle for weaving in ends and attaching appliques

To cre8te the hat:

  1. Mc 6sc join with sl st, do not pull center tight
  2. 8sc around
  3. 8sc around
  4. 8sc around, pull up on loop to make larger and remove hook, turn piece inside out (you want the “wrong” side to show) and pull tail through center hole, pull tight and fasten off tail of mc (if you don’t do this now you won’t be able to get to it later)
  5. Insert hook back into loop going the normal right way and sc once around <8> join with sl st and cut yarn long enough to change color and weave in later
  6. Change color by picking up black yarn and pulling through yellow yarn, pull tail of yellow yarn tight so that only black yarn shows and hdc around <8> do not sl st to finish round yet * work over tails but leave out enough to weave them back in the opposite direction.  At this point pull up on loop and lengthen, remove hook for easier working and weave yellow and black tails securely in opposite directions, be sure to pull tight enough so that no seem or step in row color shows.  Sl st to join.
  7. Hdc around <8>
  8. Hdc around <8>
  9. Change hook to 5.0mm- [2hdc] around <16>
  10. Hdc around with [2hdc] in every 4th st <20>
  11. Hdc around with [2hdc] in every 2nd st <30>
  12. Hdc around with [2hdc] in every 3rd <40>
  13. Hdc around with [2hd] in every 8th st <45>
  14. Repeat for 8 more rows
  15. Change to grey
  16. 17 hdc around then in next st insert hook slightly above where next st would go and begin a double crochet, but do only pull hook through 1st two loops then insert back into hole and yarn over, pull through all loops on hook
  17. Use the same method for creating the rounded part on grey of hat, increasing the distance of where you insert your hook from edge, do the opposite on the other side for a total of 12 st
  18. 16hdc around to end
  19. 45hdc around
  20. Sl st around to finish


To cre8te the beak:

With white ch 7

Turn and st across 1sc in the next three, 1hdc in the next two, 1 dc in last <6> fasten off but leave ends, leave one longer tail (12” or so) for fastening

006     007

Loosely sl st around teeth with black, fasten off but do not weave in ends yet

Using yellow/gold insert hook front to back into back loop of the last st you completed (top left hand corner, pick up new color and sc to end in back loop only, chain 4, and sc back <3> sc into last sc of previous row

Continue by sc across top of white row <6>

Turn and sc all the way to second to last st.  sl st in last <9sc, 1sl st>

Turn and sk 1st st, sc across <9>

Turn and 6sc then sl st end <4>

Ch3 and sc back into 1st ch, 7hdc across top of beak, 1sc, 1sl st

Finish off. Leave long tail

*Beak point will be to right.

Insert hook into the point of the beak where the white and black meet the orange, surface sl st crochet to tip of beak.  Fasten off and weave in ends

Weave in all other tails leaving one long orange tail and one long white tail for fastening to hat

To cre8te the eyes:

Starting with red for eyebrow ch 9, sc across <8>  fasten off, leaving long tail

Starting at inner corner of eyebrow insert hook from back to front and pick up white- 5sc turn and 1sc, [2sc] in each of next two, 1sc, 1sl st, sl into same sp and fasten off leaving long tail.  Weave in short end.

In inner corner where red meets white insert hook front to back and pick up grey.  Sl st into red, turn and sc around white, 1sc in 1st, 1sc in next, [2sc] in each of next three, 1sc in next three and sl st into red.  Turn and sl in next 6 sts, [2sc] in next 3st st to end, sl into eyebrow and fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Repeat for second eye, but insert hook from front to back in the 6th space from corner to add white for a mirror effect

To cre8te pupil:

5sc in mc, fasten off and leave long tail, weave in short tail

Sew pupil to eye where all three colors meet in inner corner

Secure beak and eyes to hat… and you are done.  Hope you enjoyed making this with me.  If you have any questions please leave a comment below or feel free to email me at  And as always

Have FUN and Happy Hookin’

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The Trendy Elf December 1, 2012

Filed under: Cre8tions,Patterns — cre8tioncrochet @ 8:42 pm
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The Trendy Elf


       037                 pinterest logo                   046

This elf hat is made in one piece construction with two stands of yarn and is seamless.  This method is good for a variety of reasons, there is no seam where colors are changed, it takes less time since there is no cutting of yarn and weaving in of ends and it allows the ribbed edge to be done in two different colors giving it a unique twist.  Color changes are also not done in the traditional way to give a seamless look.  (yarn does not travel it simply hangs until it is needed so there is very little waste, maybe 6 inches of each color total)

This pattern is made size 6-12 months but can easily be adjusted for any size.
*To make smaller simply stop increasing rounds when you’ve reached desired amount of stitches for size and continue to work hat in that amount of stitches (nb 20-25st total, 0-3mo 25-30st total, 3-6mo 30-35 st total) to desired length
*To make larger simply increase the amount of increasing rows and finish hat in that amount of stitches to desired length
(older child would be 35-40 st, adult women would be 45-50st and men would be 55-60)


Choice of yarn in two colors- The pattern is created using Vanna’s choice in Cranberry and White and the other hat pictured is created using Red Heart.  To make the elf hat “trendy” non-traditional colors should be used, but for the purpose of contrast in this pattern, I chose traditional colors… the multi colored ribbed edge still looks unique and fashionable.

5.0mm crochet hook

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Abbreviations and Stitches used:

st- stitch

mc- magic circle/ring

sl st- slip stitch

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

insert hook, yarn over, pull through (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops

hdc- half double crochet-

yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops

fphdc- front post half double crochet

yarn over, insert hook behind post of stitch from bottom to top, yarn over pull through (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops

Notes will be denoted by an asterisk throughout the pattern, please be sure to pay mind to them, but here a few to start.
The only time tension should be used on this project is when colors are being  changed.
*To keep colors from twisting place color A to the left of you and color B to the right of you.  When pulling from color A (left) pull from underneath color B (right) and when working from color B (right) pull over color A (left).  If yarn starts to tangle stop as soon as you notice it and wind one skein under the yarn to fix before it becomes a problem.
*Each round is worked without a starting chain, making it seamless.  When we get to that part in the pattern I will explain in more detail with pictures but in short stitches are worked as normal (1st st in next space after where previous round was joined with sl st) and the last stitch of each round is sl st’ed into the first stitch… as long as you keep your yarn pulled tight when you change your colors you should not be able to see a seam and the colors will line up perfectly with no steps between rows.
*Whatever color you start with will be the color the raised ribs of edging are.

If you have any questions please feel free to email me at or like our fb page and message me there.

Before you begin crocheting you need to cut yarn for the braided tassle.  Cut six strands of yarn (3 of each color, or 6 of one color, whatever your preference is) to 24” in length.  Double knot 6 strands together at one end.

  1. Create mc with both strands of yarn, using both strands make sl st into ring
  2. Drop one strand and use the strand of the color you want to begin with (place this skein to your left-color A and the other skein to your right- color B)
  3. With color A- 8sc around magic ring (around both strands) leave color B free and *do not stitch over (throughout entire project the color not currently being used will lay free and will not be weaved into the work).  Join with sl st but do NOT pull tight
  4. Still working with color A, one hdc in each st  <8> join with sl st {*last st of round will go into the space before the first stitch of round)
    016    this is not the step you will be at, this is just to illustrate where your sl st will go
  5. Pull up and take hook out of piece, use hook to pull tassle through hole until you reach your double knot.  Pull tight.
  6. Flip work over and tie tails around base of knot (close to hat) two times
  7. Cut all ends
  8. Insert hook back into piece and pull yarn snug
    Change colors- with hook pick up color B (remember to pull over color A so as not to tangle yarn)and pull through st.  Pull tail of color A tight so that only color B shows through work and on hook {*it is important whenever changing colors to make sure the color you just changed from is pulled tight so that rows line up nicely with no steps}
    hdc around circle for two rows <8>
  9. Change color the same as before (pulling from under) and do two rows of hdc.
  10. Continue this way until 5 blocks of color A (10rows) and 5 blocks of color B (10 rows) are worked ending in Color B
  11. With color A- Increase round by adding an extra hdc in every 4th st <10>
  12. One hdc in each st around <10>
  13. Change to color B- Increase round by adding an extra hdc to every 5th st <12>
  14. One hdc in eact st around <12>
    020     018     019
  15. Change to color A- Increase round by adding an extra hdc to every 3rd  st <16>
  16. Increase round by adding an extra hdc to every 4th st <20>
  17. Change to color B- Increase round by adding an extra hdc in every other st <30>
  18. One hdc in each st around <30>
  19. Change to Color A- Increase round by adding an extra hdc in every 3rd st <40>
  20. One hdc in each st around <40>
  21. Complete hat in same manner changing colors every 2 rows until you have reached 9 blocks of color A and 9 blocks of color B, from start, 36rows total
  22. For next row you will alternate the color of the stitches with hdc st’s.  The entire ribbing rows are where it is very important to remember to pull color A from underneath and color B from over the other colors.
    You will have ended the previous row on color B so starting with that color hdc in next sp, drop color B and pick up color A, hdc in next, repeat till end, sl into last sp (will be on color B)
  23. Using color B hdc into first space, using color A fphdc into post of next stitch.  {*whatever color yarn you pick up will the the color of the stitch you are doing} end row with sl st and repeat for      more rows for a total of     alternating color rib rows.  You will now you are doing it correctly when the top loop of every row is alternating being the same color as the stitch after it.
    022     023     024
  24. To finish off sl st and pull tail all the way through, use tapestry needle to secure color B first and then color B.
    025     027     031                                                   028     030     026
  25. Finish off by braiding tail and tie into bow.  Or follow one of the variations below.
  26. You have now finished off your trendy elf hat.

     034                                   033


Make the thin part of hat longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing rows

Change how rows are done- one row of each color, or mix it up and do two rows of one color and one row of the other or any combination you can think of

Do the ribs in blocks of color.  In first row of ribs do two of one color and two of the other and then follow colors when doing fpdc rows

Use three colors instead of two

Put a pom pom on end of braid or do a tassle and leave strands long, use your imagination and see what you can come up with… I’d love to see pictures.  Email them to us at

If you like what you see PIN IT

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Have FUN and happy hookin’


Sashay Ruffle Scarves

Filed under: Cre8tions,guest blogger,Patterns — cre8tioncrochet @ 5:50 am
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Get in on the trend… learn how to make these easy and cute

Sashay Ruffle Scarves

The sashay yarn has been around for a little while now and it is really getting popular.  I do not have my own pattern for this one as there is really only one way to make the scarves though for some variation you can change the amount of stitches in each loop to make it fuller.  The pattern calls for 10 stitches per loop but it also looks great done with 15 or even 20 stitches.  The scarf will be fuller but, of course, shorter.

Here is a link to the pattern that got me started on making the Sashay Scarves.  Below that you will find a link to an easy video tutorial.

Mix up how you wear your sashay ruffle scarve… it really looks great as a cowl.

  sashay cowl 2   sashay cowl 3   sashay cowl 4   sashay cowl1

How to Crochet with Sashay Yarn

Easy Video Tutorial

For Great Deals on the featured Sashay colors click on the picture!  Available through

sashay ballat     sashay boogie     sashay shuffle



Cheshire Cat Applique- Great for a Hat November 29, 2012

Filed under: Appliques,Cre8tions,Patterns — cre8tioncrochet @ 8:56 pm

Cheshire Cat Applique

“you may have noticed that I’m not all there myself”- The Cheshire Cat

My family and I moved recently and we haven’t gotten any cable tv services yet (think we are going to just get Hulu and Netflix to save money, but anyway, I digress).  Well since we don’t have cable I have decided to revisit all my favorite kid movies with my 20month old daughter.  Last week we watched “Alice in Wonderland”.  I told my husband that I was going to make a hat of the Cheshire Cat… he laughed at me.  Well, being the loving wifey that I am I told him to shut the hell up, I’d make the hat and when I did he would have to cook dinner, and then promptly forgot about my idea.  Until, that is, I made a new hat for a friend’s daughter in purple and magenta stripes  and I remembered all about my promise.

Here is the finished hat with applique  004     006   002

Here is the pattern for my striped hat that you will need to get started (this pattern will be released later this week).  This hat is a little different as it is made by carrying your yarn.  No need to cut in between colors or weave in any of those pesky ends… just one continuous go around.  There is very little yarn wasted (probably 6 inches total from each color) and it is so much easier than the traditional way of changing colors.  Another bonus to working your hat this way will be the ability to make ribs in two colors instead of just one.  I came up with this method when I created my Trendy Elf Hat (pattern to be released later this week)

After you’ve created your hat, or any hat of choice, you will need to make your appliques for the Cheshire Cat.  So let’s get hookin’.


Yarn in:
-Four shades of purple
two different colors of choice for hat and a dark lilac and light lavender for the Cheshire Cat’s face
also needed for the nose and eyelids
(alternately you can use blue or pink with the purple for the hat)
-Yellow- for eyes
(alternately you can use white but I chose to go with the yellow of glow in the dark eyes)
-White- for teeth
-Black- for pupils, and lines on teeth

I honestly cannot give you names of colors used here since I just pulled from my stash to make this cre8tion but I will give you brand names and type of color and then you can narrow it down from there.  I used three types of yarn here.  RedHeart, Vanna’s Choice and Caron’s Simply Soft.  You can use any yarn that you want for the hat but I greatly recommend using the Simply Soft for the appliques, it is a thinner yarn and is easier to crochet tightly with.  I made the hat with RedHeart’s With Love (purple and magenta).  The top of the Cheshire Cats face was done with Vanna’s Choice (dusty lilac), and Caron’s Simply Soft for the rest of the appliques (light yellow, white, and black).

Crochet Hooks in 4.0mm and 2.75mm

Tapestry needles- one large and one small

Patience, lol

Abbreviations and stitches used:

st- stitch

mc- magic circle/ring
detailed picture tutorial on my small flower pattern

ch- chain

sc- single crochet
insert hook, yarn over, pull through (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops

hdc- half double crochet
yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops

dc- double crochet
yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook, yarn over and pull through last two loops.

Dec 2 Tog- decrease two together– all done on sc in this application
insert hook, yarn over, pull through, (two loops on hook), insert hook in next space, yarn over, pull through, (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops

sl st- slip stitch
insert hook, yarn over, pull through, (two loops on hook), pull loop closest to hook through other loop


  • I use clover hooks which in my opinion tend to run bigger than traditional hooks so if you are using regular steel hooks you can increase the size by .25 or .50, as long as it is consistent
  • Unless otherwise specified there will be one stich per space.  So if you see 2sc, that means one sc in two different spaces, I will say make sure I am clear when multiple stitches will need to go into one space.
  • Although no one will see the backs of the appliques I do recommend keeping them neat for easier assembly and a more polished look when applied to hat.
  • TAKE YOUR TIME and double check your work as you go along.  Do not pull anything tight, fasten off, or secure on, UNTIL you’ve checked (and checked again) to make sure it’s right.  This is a lot of work, you don’t want to waste it by making a silly mistake (take it from me… I’ve done it a few times just while making this pattern.)

To create the Eyes:
Using Caron’s Simply Soft in yellow with a 2.75mm hook

  1. 5sc in mc, join with sl st * leave long tail on mc, this will be what you sew onto face with
  2. 2sc in each st, join with sl st <10>
  3. 2sc in each st, join with sl st <20>
  4. 2sc in 1st st, 1sc in next st, continue around, join with sl st <30>
  5. Do not fasten off… move on to eyelids (secure long tail from mc with one or two anchor knots)

To create eyelid: Using the darker color from hat and a 2.75mm hook
Change color on finished eye from yellow to purple with a sl st

  1. Crochet around eye as follows (one stitch in each space)
    1sl st
  2. Finish off and weave in ends leaving one long yellow tail

To create pupil: Using Caron’s Simply Soft in Black and 2.75mm hook

  1. 5sc in mc, join with sl st- pull tight
  2. Fasten off and stitch onto eye, near lower edge (pic)
  3. Repeat for other Eye

To create the Nose:
Using the lighter color from the hat with a 2.75mm hook

  1. Ch2
  2. Turn, 3sc in 2nd sp from hook
  3. Turn, 2 sc in each sp <6>
  4. Turn and crochet as follows
    1sc in 1st two, 2 sc in next two, 1sc in each of next two  <8>
  5. Turn, 1sc in each sp <8>
  6. Fasten off, leaving long tail (approx. 18)
  7. Stitch on nostrils using smaller tapestry needle and black yarn

To create the Teeth:
Using Caron’s Simply Soft in White with a 2.75mm hook

  1. Ch 26
  2.  Turn, 1 sc in next 7, 1hdc in next 5, 2hdc in next, 1hdc in next 5, 1sc in the next 7
  3. Do not turn, continue around the piece, 1 sc in each (you can work in the tail at this point)
    at center of teeth (“u”shaped indent dec2tog) (11th and 12th sts) (pic)
  4. continue to crochet around teeth with 2sc in corners, completely around one and a half times
    (3 corners)
  5. At top stitch of next corner (right side)
    Chain 3, sl st into same space, sl st to top of next corner, ch 3, sl st into same space, continue to sl st to end and fasten off, leave tail
    to attach to face.
  6. Stitch on lines for teeth using Caron’s Simply Soft in black with a small tapestry needle.  Be sure to secure each line so that they
    don’t loosen)

To create the Ears:
Using color of upper portion of face and 2.75mm hook

  1. Ch6
  2. Sc back across <5>, ch1, turn
  3. Skip first sp, sc remaining 4, ch 1, turn
  4. Skip first sp, sc remaining 3, ch1, turn
  5. Skip first sp, sc remaining 2, ch1 turn
  6. Skip first sp, sc into last space, ch1
  7. Sc around perimeter of ear with 3sc in each of the 3 corners (weave in tail as you go and cut off at bottom of ear).  At top of ear ch 1 before sl st’ing to finish, leave long tail, weave in to bottom of ear and leave for later attaching
  8. Using needle and darker color purple yarn (eyelid color) whip stitch around outside of ear two sides only, leave bottom plain

To create the lower portion of Face:
Using Caron’s Simply Soft in light lavender shade with 4.0mm hook

  1. 16sc in mc, do not worry about pulling all the way closed, this will be covered by teeth and you want enough flexibility to mold this
    into an oval shape.  Sl st to close <16>
  2. 1sc in next five, 2hdc in each of the next three, 1 sc in the next five, 2hdc in each of the next three, sl st to connect <22>
  3. 1sc in next 7, 3hdc in next, 5dhc in next, 3 hdc in next,  1 sc in next 6, 3hdc in next, 5hdc in next, 3 hdc in next, 1sc in next 3, join with
    sl st <38>
  4. 1sc in next 12, 2hdc in next, 3hdc in next, 2hdc in next, 1sc in next four, dec2tog once, 1sc in next four, 2hdc in next, 3hdc in next, 2 hdc
    in next, 1 sc in next ten, join with sl st. <45>
  5.  1sc in next 14, 2hdc in next, 3hdc in next, 2hdc in next, 1sc in next five, dec2tog once, 1sc in next five, 2hdc in next, 3hdc in next, 2hdc
    in next, 1sc in next 13, join with sl st. <52>
  6. 1sc in next 16, 2hdc in next, 3hdc in next, 2 hdc in next, 1sc in next 6, dec2tog once, 1sc in next six,  sc in next 16, join with sl st.  <59>
  7. 1sc in next 18, 2hdc in next, 3hdc in next, 2hdc in next, 1sc in next seven, dec2tog once, 1sc in next seven, 2hdc in next, 3hdc in next,
    2hdc in next, 1sc in next 19, join with sl st.
  8. DONE with lower part of face…  finish off leaving a long tail to stitch onto hat when finished (approx. 24”) secure to back of work and anchor with two knots.  Finish off thread from mc (do not pull too tight, it should look like a slit.  (pic)

To create upper portion of Face:
Using the darker of your lavender/lilac colors (I used Vanna’s in a shade of dusty lilac) with 4.0mm hook

  1. Starting at upper right hand “cheek” portion, in the stitch below the 1st 2hdc space on the last row, insert hook from front to back and pick up new yarn, sl st into next sc in next, ch3, sl st into same space, 1sc into next,  ch4, sl into same space, 1sc in next, ch 3, sl into same space, 1sc in next 25, sl st into next, ch 3, sl into same sp, 1sc in next, ch 4, sl st into same space, 1sc in next, ch 3 sl into same space, fasten off, weave in ends.

Using same color and hook

  1. Insert hook into 10 crochet space on the right hand cheek (count up from first sl st of previous addition) pick up yarn and sc into next sp, 1sc in next 10, sl into next, (pic)
  2. Turn, sc across row <12>
  3. Turn sc across row <12>
  4. Turn 2sc in first sp, 1sc in next 10, 2sc in last <14>
  5. Turn 2sc in 1st space, 1sc in next 12, 2sc in last <16>, chain 6
  6. Turn, sl st into same space, 1sc in next 15, chain 6
  7. Turn, sl st into same space, ch 4, sl st into same sp, 1sc in next 13, sl st into next, ch4
  8. Turn sl st into same space, 1sc in next, ch 4, sl st into same space, 1sc into next sp, 1 hdc in next, 2hdc in next two spaces, sl st into next two spaces, 2hdc in each of next two spaces, 1 hdc in next sp, 1sc in next sp, sl st into next sp, ch4, sl st into same space,
  9. Finish off and weave in both ends.  You have now completed the face.

Assemble face, starting with the mouth, take your time and line everything up before stitching… check as you stitch to make sure pieces have not moved.  I anchor my pieces on first using only a few stitches before I finish stitching on, this way I can double check placement before securing permanently, its easier to pull a few stitches than pull apart all the work which would ruin the integrity of the piece.  (I learned this the hard way)

Add eyes, nose and ears in that order.  Stitch black laugh lines onto face if wanted to add more character.

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial.  If so please Pin It                              

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And as always happy hookin’


Hair Accessory Repository November 15, 2012

Filed under: Cre8tions,guest blogger,Patterns — cre8tioncrochet @ 7:51 pm

Never buy headbands or barrettes again.  These adorable hair fashions are easy to make.  The ones featured here are all crochet but there is a lot more to come, including more crocheted headbands and button and wire jewelry hair accessories too.  As well as guest features from my fellow hookers and crafters.  Stay tuned.



Let’s start with the basic crocheted flower hair clip.  These barrettes were purchased extremely inexpensively… the dollar store actually.  The came anywhere from 8-12 per pack for $1 each which would make these barrettes very profitable too, if you so wish to make them to sell.  I sell mine for
$3- 4 each.

First things first, crochet a whole bunch of flowers… you can make your own or follow the patterns listed here in The Flower Repository.

Step1 Line the barrette in place on the back of the flower

Step 2 Thread a needle with approximately 2ft of thread (I prefer upholstery or nylon thread vs cotton thread because of the durability).  Double knot and cut off excess right past the knot

Step 3 From the bottom up, thread the flower on to the barrette leaving the knot exposed by about half an inch.  Insert the needle back through flower from top to bottom, slipping through the knotted thread on the way up.  Pull tight and begin stitching the rest of the barrette onto the flower.  You may find it easier to open the barrette at this point, be sure not to catch the clip as you stitch.  Be careful not to let the thread show through to the other side as you stitch.


Your clip may have a hole at either end.  Secure through this hole.  If you don’t secure the clip at both ends it will slide freely through the flower which you do not want.

Step 4 Finish by running needle under the barrette several times to secure, cut thread.

And there is your finished flower barrette


AND what it looks like on my Silly Monkey

Alternately you can use different style barrettes (some of these were purchased at the dollar store as well and some at Walmart)  You can also find these barrettes and other style clips at Michael’s, AC Moore, JoAnn Fabrics and The Hobby Lobby though they are much more expensive at those stores.

If  you have a large enough clip/ barrette you can use the yarn from the flower to stitch it onto the barrette, just be sure to leave a long enough tail when you crochet.


Next let us take a look at some different head band options.

Simply stitch your finished flowers (or bows) onto store bought elastic bands.


You can also use crocheted head bands.


There is a great Crocheted Flower Headband Tutorial on

And two more barrette ideas from cre8tioncrochet

Small Flower Barrette    


Small Bow Barrette        

If you have a tutorial or pattern for a hair accessory that you would like to have featured on my blog or as always if you have any questions please email us at

Have fun and Happy Hookin… AND Craftin’


More Slipper Options

Filed under: Cre8tions,Patterns — cre8tioncrochet @ 7:02 pm

These slippers were made using RedHeart With Love Yarn.  I like this yarn even better in this application.  The slippers have more shape and stability and they are even less slippery.  You can also use dots of puffy paint on the bottom of your slippers to make them non-slip, though I would hand wash them in that instance.


You can also get more bang for your buck with the RedHeart yarn.   One skein of Vanna’s Choice will make 2 pairs of finished slippers.  You can make at least 4 pairs with one skein of the With Love by RedHeart.

The complete Fitted Slipper Pattern and alternate design options can be found here.

Here is another style option.  I used one color for the toe and sole and another color for the rest for an awesome two toned effect.  Stay tuned for the other options come to life.


Fitted Slippers Crochet Pattern- FREE for a limited time November 13, 2012

Filed under: Cre8tions,Patterns — cre8tioncrochet @ 4:19 pm

                            My Fitted Slippers           


I’m always excited when I have another free pattern to offer but I’m really proud of this one… maybe because when I first started making this it was the first time I had ever attempted a slipper or maybe it is because I had so many starts trying to perfect this cre8tion.  I believe I have done it… I hope you agree.

This pattern is probably best for someone who has not just started out since there are quite a few increases and decreases and it is very detailed, but if you follow close attention and learn the necessary stitches then I’m sure anyone could make it.  As always feel free to email me at if you have any questions or need help.

I created this pattern because after following a slipper pattern I recently came across, I just wasn’t happy with the way it was turning out.  A quick slipper pattern search proved to be more of the same.  I wanted a slipper with a defined heel.  Some other benefits to my pattern are that the toe and heel are more reinforced, it has an actual sole and sides, and the slipper holds its shape.  I know that when I sell my items or give them away as gifts that I want them to look like their intended use.  I just didn’t like the way the other slippers looked when they were not on my feet.  My slipper is also made in one piece and does not require a fasten off except for at the end.  And as an added bonus they can be easily adjusted to make different slipper sizes.

This pattern was designed for womens size 7-8 but can be easily adapted to fit any size foot… see note at end of pattern for size changes and decoration ideas.

Skill Level:  Intermediate

Abbreviations and stitches required:

magic circle–  Holding the tail of the beginning of the yarn in the palm of your less dominant hand with the excess towards the bac, wrap the yarn around 3 of your fingers (forefinger, middle and ring fingers) towards the back, on your less dominant hand.  Wrap it around to the front and cross it over your forefinger, pinch it between the top of your finger and your thumb.  Be sure that the tail is in the front of your hand (in your palm) and that the yarn crosses over your forefinger on top with the excess yarn towards the back.  Slipping the hook between the backs of your fingers and the yarn “circle”,  hook the excess yarn with the hook and pull it through the circle.  Pinch the “circle” where the yarn is crossed over between your thumb and forefinger.  I hold the excess yarn taut between my forefinger and middle fingers at this point.  If you are doing a sc hook the excess yarn again on top, outside of the circle and pull through your loop, this creates a slip stitch on your circle.  You can now continue to stitch around the circle to complete your magic ring.  For single crochet insert hook through the circle to the back, yo and pull through, yo on the top outside of the circle and pull through both loops.  After finishing the required amount of stitches, use the tail to pull the circle tight and sl st into the 1st st.  Pull tight and continue on to round.  Since we are doing only sc in this pattern I will save the rest of the magic circle lesson for later… (post coming soon with lots of helpful hints and detailed pictures of stiches).  Check out my Small Flower Pattern for detailed pics of how to do the magic circle.
– ch- chain.
sc– insert hook, yo <2 loops on hook> yo, pull through both loops
hdc– yo, insert hook, yo, pull through ❤ loops on hook> yo, pull through all three loops
dc– yo, insert hook, yo, pull through  ❤ loops on hook> yo, pull through 1st 2 loops on hook, yo <two loops on hook> yo, pull through both loops on hook.
Sl st– insert hook, yo, pull through, <2 loops on hook> pull 1st loop through 2nd loop
– dec2tog= IN SC- insert hook, yo, pull through <2 loops on hook> insert hook, yo, pull through ❤ loops on   hook> yo, pull through all three loops
IN DC- insert hook, yo, pull through <2 loops on hook> insert hook, yo, pull through ❤ loops on hook> yo, pull through first 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops
– dec3tog= insert hook, yo, pull through <2 loops on hook> insert hook, yo, pull through ❤ loops on hook> insert hook, yo, pull through <4 loops on hook> yo, pull through all four loops

Size 4.0mm hook
Medium or worsted weight yarn (I  used Vanna’s Choice but RedHeart would work just as well)
Tapestry needle for weaving in end
4 stitch markers- optional

-Be sure not to make your sl st’s to tight in entire pattern- but they must not be loose during the final edging.
-IF you have obvious seams you can “hide” this by making the seems be on the inside of either slipper… at the end of Rnd 7 the directions say ch 2 and turn.  Make one this way and make the other one by doing, ch 2 and continue to crochet in that direction.  This way your seams will be on opposite sides and you can make it the inside of each finished slipper.  The way I avoid seams in this project is to NOT chain 2 to start my rounds.  I simply make the dc in the 1st space and sl st into it at the end of each round to complete the round.  You can see in my picture at the end of Rnd 6 that the seam is barely noticeable.
-For a more contoured look you can make the sides of the slipper indent by in’’termingling hdc or sc along sides and keeping dc along the back.


Rnd 1- Magic circle 5sc, join with sl st

Rnd 2- sc in each st, join with sl st <10sc>

Rnd 3- dc in each st, join with sl st <20dc>

Rnd 4- dc in each st, with 2dc in every 4th st*  repeat all the way around, join with sl st <25dc>

Rnd 5 thru 6- dc in every st, join with sl st <25dc> ch 2 turn*

Rw 7- turning ch counts as 1st dc, 12 more dc <13dc total>

*From here one it is assumed that 1st dc in each row is the turning ch 2 from previous row.

Rw 8- 13 dc

Rw 9- 5dc, dec2tog in 6th st, dc to end <12dc total>

Rw 10- 4dc, dec2tog in 5th st, dc to end <11dc total>

Rw 11- 4dc, dec2tog in 5th, dc to end <10dc>

Rw 12- 10dc

Rw 13 thru 14- 10 sc

Rw 15- sc in each st with 2 sc in 5th st <11sc>

Rw 16- sc in each st with 2sc in 6th st <12sc>

Rw 17- sc in each st with 2sc in 7th st <13>

Rw 18 thru 19-  13sc

Rw 19- sc in every stitch BUT sl st instead in sts 7&8 <13 total stitches( 11sc, 2sl st)>

Rw 20- sc in every st BUT sl st instead into sts 6,7,8 &9 <13 total stitches( 9sc, 4sl st)>

Rw 21- sc in every st BUT sl st instead into sts 4-10 <13 total stitches( 6sc, 7 sl st)>
at the end of this row you will have a “u” shaped indent in top of rows

Rw 22- sc in every st BUT dec2tog for sts 3&4, 5&6, 7&8, 9&10, 11&12 <8sc>

Rw 23- sc in every st BUT dec2tog for sts 2&3, 4&5, 6&7 <5sc>

Rw 24- with only 5 sts left you will dec3tog and dec2tog- this will give you your heel and complete basic slipper sole and toe shape.

2nd Rnd 1- Sc around entire outside perimeter of slipper, you will be doing this blindly but it will be approx. 1sc for every sc st and 2sc for every dc st that you are stitching in to.  Be sure to insert hook under at least two strands of yarn so that you don’t get “holes” around the stitches, but try not to go through too many strands or it will look sloppy.

-Before moving on to next step determine these two points- 1) The most narrow part of the slipper (which should be between the last dc row and 1st sc row of sole) AND 2) the desired width of toe section, paying mind to the two corners where toes meet sides. In each subsequent round you will be dec2tog at these 4 places.   It may be easier to mark this points with stitch markers.

2nd Rnd 2- dc around back and sides of slipper, at most narrow part dec2tog.  Skip ONE stitch right before you stitch where you will dec2tog at 1st corner of toe section.  Sc across toe section and skip ONE stitch right before you will dec2tog in 2nd corner of toe section. (*if you can’t figure that step out or where to skip the one step then just dec2tog in corner, the finished look will only be slightly different and will still look nice)

2nd Rnd 3 thru 4- dc around back and sides of slipper, at most narrow part dec2tog.  Dec2tog at 1st corner of toe section, sc across toe section, dec2tog at 2nd corner.

2nd Rnd 5- sl st around entire perimeter of slipper and fasten off.  Finish off beginning magic circle by weaving in ends.


You have now completed one slipper… repeat steps for 2nd slipper.  Embellish any way you like… some ideas are:

-Run ribbon through perimeter and tie in cute bow in front
-Attach a flower (or two or three) to top of toe- small flower pattern
-Make into an Owl face by adding two eyes (either crocheted or buttons) and a beak
-Add buttons to top of toe

Or you can use two different colors in any combo, some idea’s are:

-Make toe and sole one color and sides and back another color  (change colors after Rw 26)
-If you make an Owl face to finish then it looks cute if you make the toe one color and the rest of slipper another color (change color after Rnd 7)

Different sizes

For every shoe size decrease (6-7, 5-6 etc) simply decrease 2 stitches in rnds 5-7, and decrease one round completely for every shoe size lower (remember to subtract a 1 from every subsequent row when finishing pattern).  Also decrease 1 stitch in all subsequent rows (1 stitch for each shoe size lower) You may also need to omit Rw 12 completely (if you do then you will need to subtract another 1 from each row for the rest of the pattern)

For every shoe size increase (8-9, 9-10) add two stitches to rnds 5-7, increase one row (so you will have rows 5-8 and remember to add a 1 to every subsequent row when finishing pattern).  You will also add 1 stitch for every shoe size increase in the rest of the rows. You may also need to repeat Rw 12 (also remember to add a 1 to every subsequent row when finishing pattern)

The best way to change size is to measure to your own foot.  Email me with any questions at


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